YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK — In the mood for some cheap natural thrills?
Then head to Yosemite National Park in the coming weeks to take advantage of what promises to be an epic spring snow melt to either gaze at or get drenched by rushing water plunging over the edge of sheer granite walls carved by glaciers and then crashing onto the valley floor.
With 14 atmospheric rivers and counting whipping up a snowpack in the central Sierra that is almost triple of what normally is on the ground on April 1, this April and likely May will be a rare opportunity to enjoy what by all accounts will be robust waterfalls crashing down to the Yosemite Valley floor as well as at Hetch Hetchy.
It is clear that conditions will be much different than a normal April. Snow, by this time of the year, is almost always gone from the valley floor.
That’s not the case currently. As of March 31, snow covered all hiking trails in and out of Yosemite Valley.
There are several miles of paved pedestrian paths in Yosemite Valley that are plowed. Wear waterproof boots and traction devices as even plowed paths can be icy. Hiking on snow-covered trails is not recommended.
That said, if you check road conditions, look for valley updates, and keep track of the weather there will be incredible opportunities in the coming two months to see a Yosemite spring that few have ever seen.
This week, as an example, should be ideal for someone who is prepared with tire chains and with proper footwear and such to see an abundance of snow along with waterfalls flowing.
As we move week by week deeper into spring, the snow will recede and the waterfalls will roar.
I’d normally have made my way to Yosemite Valley by late March to hike up to Yosemite Fall before the crowds start arriving in earnest. Then in May, I’ll make my way to the Southern Rim where snow would be still lingering in a few spots with areas above the valley at higher elevations still piled with snow.
This year — assuming the winter storms eventually stop — I’m aiming for late April as my first hiking trip. I figure by then show chains won’t be an issue and enough snow will have melted that I can make my way up trails I’ve hiked before starting near the Wawona Tunnel to beyond Taft Point where the odds are snow will still be fairly deep.
Just driving to the valley and staying on the floor to take in the waterfalls is worth the trip.
If you are into some serious hiking you can head up from the valley floor to get a view of places such as where Yosemite Creek sends water over a granite lip at 5,404 feet in roaring sheets of water slamming to the ground 2,045 feet below.
Even if all you do is meander around the valley the $35 admission (a pass for one vehicle for seven days) is well worth the trip.
This is the ideal time to go. The water is flowing and the crowds are still relatively sparse.
The tradeoff is that high temperatures will linger in the mid-40s with lows expected to dip to 18 degrees. The following week, the forecast calls for highs to flirt with 60 degrees with lows in the mid-30s.
But then again, bundling against the chill savoring the scenery and perhaps even enjoying a brisk picnic is a joy to remember.
You will not find another place on earth where granite, the power of glaciers, and snowmelt has created such a repertoire of stunning waterfalls cascading into a valley of less than six square miles. It’s why 4 million people from all over the world venture to Yosemite Valley each year. Yet many of us take it for granted — or have never ventured there — despite it being in our own backyard.
There are a number of waterfalls that cascade over the granite rim above the valley for only a few months max before they disappear.
That’s OK as you are still left with two world-class falls you can see from the valley floor and another two that are a fairly short hike up the park’s most popular trail — the Mist Trail — that is also the first leg for those heading from the valley floor to top of the iconic Half Dome.
There are a number of other falls in the 1,169 square miles that make up Yosemite National Park. One that I’m lumping in with the valley falls as must see is one of two that feed Hetch Hetch Valley that the City of San Francisco flooded when they built O’Shaughnessy Dam submerging the valley floor for eight miles under as much as 430 feet of water.
Here’s a look at the five waterfalls that are a must see over the next month thanks to the late snowmelt putting them at prime flow levels for near maximum “wow”.
BRIDALVEIL FALL
The first fall you see when you enter Yosemite Valley proper is Bridalveil. It plunges 620 feet to the valley floor from the south rim.
There are lots of reasons to like Bridalveil. Topping the list is the soaking that you can get this time of year as you near the base.
The best experience I ever had was eight years ago in late March when a mist from the fall strayed hitting us half way up the trail. As we got closer it turned into rain then a heavy downpour as we neared the observation area.
One couple foolishly tried to open an umbrella for protection but the deluge and the wind kicked up by the power of the falling water made it an exercise in futility.
Most of the year you can reach the rail of the observation area without getting a drop of water on you but what’s the fun in that?
The trail is a half mile round trip from the Bridalveil parking lot. It has an elevation gain of 80 feet that should take about 20 minutes. The fall — that gets its name from its appearance — flows year-round.
YOSEMITE FALLS
This is “the” waterfall. It drops 2,425 feet from the top of the upper fall to the base of the lower fall.
There are three ways to get up close vantage points. One is the easy trails near the base of the lower fall. Another is a two-mile round trip to Columbia Rock that has a 1,000-foot gain and is considered a moderate challenge taking most folks two to three hours to make the round trip. At this point on the trail, you are often rewarded with a rainbow arcing across the upper fall as well as an incredible roaring sound.
The trip to the top of Yosemite Fall is strenuous and would be a grind if there weren’t so many great places to stop and whip out your smartphone for photo ops. It is a six- to eight-hour round trip covering 7.2 miles with a gain of 2,700 feet.
Rest assured it is more than worth it. The top photo featured with this story is shot from the edge of the lookout right next to where Yosemite Creek starts its plunge that covers the distance of two Empire State Buildings stacked atop each other.
The vantage point from the 20th highest fall in the world lets you see Yosemite Valley from a different perspective. The views along Yosemite Point rival my favorite from North Dome just to the north.
VERNAL & NEVADA FALLS
The Mist Trail is “the” hike for most Yosemite visitors.
I’d agree if you only had time to knockout one hike in your visit to Yosemite as it packs a lot into the seven-mile round trip to Nevada Fall (1,900 feet of gain) although you can make it a three-mile round trip to Vernal Fall (1,000 feet of gain). I’d be lying if I said it was my favorite hike given it doesn’t end above 10,000 feet on a mountain summit. That said, this is my sentimental favorite. It is where I fell in love with Cynthia.
It hit me perhaps halfway up the wide steps carved in the granite leading to Nevada Fall. And just as I went to steal a kiss, a vibrant rainbow arced across the Merced River from the mist creating by water falling to provide a backdrop as I closed my eyes.
It was magical and romantic. Most people who tackle the Mist Trail get the magical part. At the top of the climb there is a huge granite plateau that nature created that’s perfect for basking in the sun as you dry off. The Mist Trail lives up to its name during the spring runoff. That said, you might want to pack a rain jacket.
This is as good a time as any to remind you rocks along a river, creek or waterfall in Yosemite can be dangerous at any time but especially during the spring runoff. There are very few places in the 1,169 square miles of Yosemite that you will see steel pipe fencing in place. There is even less — perhaps four — where there are signs posted not to cross the fence. Those foolish enough to throw caution to the wind or act without thinking have paid with their lives. This is where two Manteca residents plus two others from the 209 lost their lives a few years back.
WAMPA FALLS
This is the waterfall on the Tuolumne River that drops into Hetch Hetchy Valley.
To reach the starting point for the hike at the top of the dam you take Evergreen Road. It’s the last left-hand turn from Highway 120 before reaching the park entrance.
You eventually will go through a park entrance station but no fee is collected. You need to note, however, that during the spring the gate that leads to the entrance station is only open from 8 a.m. to 7 p.m. If you’re not out by 7 p.m. you are locked in until morning.
I used to shun Hetch Hetchy thinking for some reason it wouldn’t live up to its hype plus the fact it wasn’t a peak hike.
That changed eight years ago. It took just one hike and I was hooked. I took my ninth hiking trip there in 2021. I’ve taken the hike to Wampa Falls in the spring, summer, fall, and winter.
It’s a 5-mile moderate round-trip with roughly 200 feet in elevation gain that is a three hour or so excursion. If I’m by myself or with someone who is game, I keep going to Rancheria Falls making it a six-to-eight-mile trip covering 13.4 miles. Rancheria is a classic example of a ribbon fall.
Wampa Falls is an amazing experience. A series of five short bridges take you across the falls about 50 or so feet where the final 400 feet of the fall is buried under 400 feet from water in the Hetch Hetchy Reservoir. Some 1,400 feet above as you look up from the bridges is the top of the fall.
This hike has a lot of other bonuses. First you are walking across a 430-foot-high dam and then through tunnel bored during the construction of the dam. Then there are the unparalleled vistas from the trail where the lake never leaves your view with the granite walls of the southern rim of the valley soaring above it.
And if you time it right a kaleidoscope of spring wildflowers will start appearing later this month.
Again, all five waterfalls flow year-round. But it’s only in the coming few weeks that they will be at their rip-roaring peak to impress your senses.